Nalle crushing

Here is a video of Nalle and his friends tearing shit up in austria. The filming is pretty sweet, the location is beautiful and Nalle is really on his game. Good music too.

Enjoy-j money

Could Be Worse from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

Training

Winter is a-coming, and so is the time to get colossal. New Hampshire will probably be rendered unclimbable within the coming months, so ill be cooped up in the gym looking for new forms of torture like a mad scientist.

So I've been doing alot of reading up on how to optimize my training. There are some great resources out there(Moon Climbing, Eric Horst, Mountain Athlete, etc.) but I would certainly advise a climber to do what works best for him, and take everything with a grain of salt. The first thing you should do before you begin your training regimen is to give yourself a reasonable short term goal. A boulder grade or 2 higher seems to be pretty good. Think about what you would be willing to give up to reach your goals and try and use this as fuel to keep yourself motivated all winter. Also highly recommended is the new Kid CuDi CD.

My favorite training regimens are found on the Moon Climbing Website. Ill be doing his core, power, and fingerboard workouts all winter. Im trying to work out every day of the week, and within the next few weeks I will be upping my workouts to 2x a day. A workout in the morning followed by gym climbing in the evening. Some days the gym climb will be subbed out for cross-training (running). My gym bouldering sessions will be focused on improving my technique and endurance, so ill try and climb as many different problems as possible and do plenty of torturous 4x4s and pyramid circuits.

So my training goals:

v8/9 by the end of spring

cut down to 125

get metal legs

feel free to post up your training goals

J-money

leftovers

Some shots from last weeks trip to the Gunks. Fun problem in the Quarantine area, fun day not too many pictures though.-

Photos By: Harley DiBlasio & Matt Milazzo

PURE

Pure follows 19 climbers around the world to 6 locations most of us could only dream about. Pure is the first bouldering film to be shot in 35mm digital format. The film features climbers Nalle Hukkataival, Kevin Jorgenson, Killian Fischhuber, Anna Stoehr, Fred Nicole, and Cody Roth with appearances by many other slayers of the stone. Check out the preview, then get the film and get psyched! Truly awesome bouldering

PURE - A Bouldering Flick by Chuck Fryberger OFFICIAL TRAILER from Chuck Fryberger on Vimeo.

ceci Juggerhulking la saison

Awesome editing, crazy boulder, baller problem, check it out. This is Juggerhulking season-

Sweet lines: Bouldering, La Proue. F7a+ bloc. from sébastien montaz-rosset on Vimeo.

Chimney Rock & the Sourlands....

Friday Jay and I went out on another 6:30am romp. this time to some more local crags Chimney rock and the Sourlands. We head to Jay's buddy Harley's pad scoop him up and head towards Chimney rock. Only a couple miles away from a quarry the rock is covered in dust so we cleaned up a bit and I started to mess around with some holds. A few hours later we had a new problem and we named it "the Nest" V3 due to the birds nest in the cave. badass.

Photo by: Harley DiBlasio

Then a little down the way's we found a nice little overhang and threw up another problem dubbed, Smearn' Off V4. Around 12 we hiked our way back to the car and headed for the Sourlands.

After a half hour hike we came to a nice outcropping of decent sized boulders and scouted around. There wasn't much chalk which got us all excited. We scouted some rocks for possible problems and found a V0 looking problem to warm up on.

Photo by: Harley DiBlasio

On that same boulder is where we stayed for a another hour or so messing around with holds and came up with, Easy Pesy Lemon Squeezy V1. It starts in the middle of the boulder on 2 crimps and goes up the arete to a nice crack and a super friction sloper to the topout. It was a fun little problem and we were still pumped for more when it started to rain a bit so we packed up and planned for another day. Good day we got three more for the book.

-Matt

a romp through the woods

It all started at 6am... ate breakfast and packed the car and on the road by 6:30. Picked up Jay at GSR and hit the road. We made it to the Gunks around 9:30 even with our little altercation with the law, still pretty pumped about the day. This was the first time any of us explored Peterskill so I knew it would be an adventure.

Right off the bat we started hiking the wrong way we eventually found our way to the warm up area and worked some problems. the Sidewalk, Loner Boner, Exit, and Spew Harder to name a few. After we warmed up a bit we decided to move onto bigger and better things.

We started hiking towards the Rock Garden. After possibly 2-3 hours of hiking around in circles we found Atrium boulders. We worked Lightning Blade, the Diving Board, and Mentos. We got a little too worked over for our liking and started to head back towards the Lions Den area. After a bout with some mosquitoes and black flies we made it through the piles of jagged talus rocks that is the Rock Garden and made it to Lions Den.

Wandering around we stumbled onto the Quarantine area, literally stumbled because we passed it unknowingly at least two times before. We focused on the Outbreak Boulder and the problem V.D. for the most part and while chilling there we met some locals and got some good beta and got preached to on how gym climbing and climbing real rock are two different worlds and that ate up out remaining hours.

All in all it was a good day we didn't send much, but what would you expect from a first time out. Just makes us want to get back there as soon as possible for some more good times. Ohh and if you weren't aware," It's called rock climbing, not rock crying."

rock on

-Matt

the deep dark pit of dispair

Took a little hiatus from the blogging for a couple weeks, work picked up like woah. Kinda screwed up may arm again, tanged my heel, and haven't climbed at my best in weeks. Also I've been working on GSR's new logo which looks baller in every way. So after a weeks rest of almost no climbing I have some adventure news, Gunks trip tomorrow long time coming, followed by Sourland and Philly next week. Also I received a big box from Organic a few weeks ago containing a fresh new pad and chalk bucket for yours truly, and more recently a fresh new pair of kicks in the form of the 5.10 teams. Thus far they are the best fitting shoe I have tried to date and the heel is bombproof. I've only had them on plastic so far tomorrow is the real test. Peterskill in the am then to GSR at night to work a problem I put up, so far nobody had snagged the fa that means its got to be me.

more tomorrow peace

-Matt

Dave Graham talks WIZARDRY

Interview from a few years ago, some interesting shit about wizardry being thrown around the strong don't always prevail ENJOY

Dave Graham interview from Flow Media on Vimeo.

fall

Between getting into the groove at GSR and turning another year older, this past week has been the best I've had in a while. On top of that its FALL the best time of year to do anything, especially climbing. So in preparation for an awesome fall season I just put an order in and gave props where its due to Josh at Organic Climbing. Also J-money has a new pair of boots coming by post and should get a initial review and some pictures up soon.

Local events coming up The 11th Annual New Paltz Climbing Film Festival featuring the 2009 Reel Rock Film Tour. It is taking place October 10th at the SUNY Lecture Center starting 7:30pm, tickets are $15 in advance at Rock & Snow, 44 Main Street, New Paltz or online at www.rockandsnow.com, or $18 at the door. The event is expected to sell out soon so get on it!

If thats a little out of the way for all ya'll the Somerset County Park commission Is hosting Adopt-A-Boulder, Saturday November 7th at Sourland Mountain Preserve. Starting at 10am and running all day long and possibly into the night. If you are a seasoned boulderer or just need that extra push to get started come out and join local boulderers and the Somerset County Comission Park Rangers for a day of trail maintenance, boulder cleaning and discovery, and landing zone construction. Be prepared to get dirty, and stay afterwards to boulder with the experts. this is a free event but they do recommend you RSVP by calling (908) 231-0802 ext. 22. I'll be there and you should too!

In conclusion we rock hard and you should too. Get out of the gym and get climbing fo real, now is the best time send!

the Latest Triple Crown Beta Vid

The Beta - Brutus from Andrew Kornylak on Vimeo.

Ashley Dorough of Chapel Hill North Carolina climbs "Brutus" (V2) at Hound Ears - the site of the first Triple Crown Bouldering Series competition near Boone, North Carolina.

down time

tendonitis strikes again... looks like I'm stuck belaying for a while. It's been a while I almost forgot what it sounded like, that faithful POP. Thats what I get for not warming up long enough. Found out the pain was caused by a little too much campusing. I'm giving it a week or so to heal up, so instead of sitting in the house sulking I'm going to check out Sourland.

Sourland Mountain Preserve is allegedly home to the finest boulder fields in New Jersey. And I'm told that for years climbing has not been tolerated, but recently that ban has been lifted. Naturally I am stoked seeing as Sourland is close by and there is no daily fee to hike or climb. Sourland is a 10 mile long volcanic ridge of diabase, over 2,600 acres of scattered rock. The thought alone has my imagination running wild. Scouring the internet and asking around I haven't been able to snag a lot beta so there is possibility of virgin rock. A friend of mine has a buddy who hikes the trails and may be able to give some heads up to good areas. Anyway this turns out it should be an awesome bouldering trip. Fingers crossed look forward to a post with crazy overhangs, outrageous slabs, and good times in the next week or so. Until then climb strong, climb often, and keep it awesome-

When ya gotta go, ya gotta go

You know how it goes, youve gotta climb, youve gotta climb. Doesn't matter whether its night or day. I've been getting serious climb urges as of late. Much to my surprise climbing isnt so accessible right now. Ive marched down to the climbing gym everyday in hopes that it would render itself climbable. No dice. So I took matters into my own hands. Whoever closed up didnt do a very good job closing the door...so climbing?...climb on. Got a quick session in, and afterword did some incognito headlamp buildering. But it presents a bigger question,

WHERE IS THE LOVE?

Fergies still out on this one, but my money is its at a frat house somewhere. Im hoping there are some more climbers here soon, and alot less red tape. I cant keep on like this, I was having visions of Rumney trips and bouldering out on clandestine boulders in swamps. Theyve reduced me to pseudo-B&E and buildering. Baller as it is, not what I had in mind. Especially when it requires calling 8 or 9 different authorities, and selling my soul to the devil just to chalk up. Hopefully some more dedicated climbers get up here soon. Country roads take me home...to the dirty jerz.

beginning

Skateboarding around Philadelphia gives you the opportunity to see a lot of things going on, especially when you make it out to Fairmount Park. The park has a few boulders scattered around, and my friends and I often thought climbing them. We were too intimidated to just jump on, we had no idea where to start. We kept saying "someday." But for one of us, "someday" didn't come soon enough. My good friend and the most stoked person I ever knew, Reo Dennis, was killed on January 26th, 2009.

After that day, skateboarding, our favorite pasttime, had lost its luster. I decided then to seize the day. In his memory, I attempted to climb the rock we had passed by for so many years. It was a lot harder than I thought it would be at first, but I knew Reo wouldn't give up so I didn't either, and thats what hooked me.

Months have passed since then and many old friends have joined me, and I have met a lot of new friends that have joined the ever-growing crew. So whether you're a seasoned climber or are looking to grab onto that first jug, Mediocre Climbing will help you with beta, training tips, gear reviews, and whatever else we find interesting, and support you as you take on that next BIG project.

climb hard, climb often, and keep it awesome-
-Matt

how do we rock so hard?

A discussion came up today about why rock climbing in general is the most rad sport in existence. It is the ultimate test of physical and mental strength with obvious skill mashed in aka and I quote, " the most baller shit ever." What's your take on it?

GANDALF'S BEARD!

With fall creeping up on the north east I've been itching to get out of the gym and onto some real rock. I just picked up a pair of Evolv Predators, and have been in the gym like a mad man breaking them in. Yesterday was one of those days, I found that with the new shoes my footwork has taken a turn for the worst. And batman has just been swallowed by a whale... Back to the fall season, there's a bunch of areas I'd like to explore more, around Philadelphia, Rumney, the Gunks and the some closer crags at Allamunchy. I think I may have even spotted some virgin rock, I'm gonna check it out this weekend or next see if I am right and try to throw up some problems. Also while in this mystery spot not to far away is a V7 highball that is begging for a couple of sends. I know J-money is dying to hit it up as well.

On the other side in the gear whore dept the buzz is the new 5.10 team shoes are blowing the older fabled V10's out of the water. So obviously I am inclined to get a pair for testing. More on that in a couple of weeks. Other new shoes we are psyched about, the La Sportiva Speedsters and lace up Katanas, the Edelrid Ravens and Tornadoes, the new Evolv lineup, and the Millet Dulac Pro's which are the Climbing.com editors choice. All look promising for the 2010 season.

Next time I hope I'll have some adventure news and possibly some training tips from the not so pro's. Till then climb strong, climb often, and keep it awesome-

Lazy sundays bore blogs on monday

Sooner or later it had to happen... the official Mediocre Climbing Blog featuring climbers you've never heard of before.... Get ready we're gonna breathe new life into those old boring problems, from V0- all the way to V14+ yes quite baller-