fall

Between getting into the groove at GSR and turning another year older, this past week has been the best I've had in a while. On top of that its FALL the best time of year to do anything, especially climbing. So in preparation for an awesome fall season I just put an order in and gave props where its due to Josh at Organic Climbing. Also J-money has a new pair of boots coming by post and should get a initial review and some pictures up soon.

Local events coming up The 11th Annual New Paltz Climbing Film Festival featuring the 2009 Reel Rock Film Tour. It is taking place October 10th at the SUNY Lecture Center starting 7:30pm, tickets are $15 in advance at Rock & Snow, 44 Main Street, New Paltz or online at www.rockandsnow.com, or $18 at the door. The event is expected to sell out soon so get on it!

If thats a little out of the way for all ya'll the Somerset County Park commission Is hosting Adopt-A-Boulder, Saturday November 7th at Sourland Mountain Preserve. Starting at 10am and running all day long and possibly into the night. If you are a seasoned boulderer or just need that extra push to get started come out and join local boulderers and the Somerset County Comission Park Rangers for a day of trail maintenance, boulder cleaning and discovery, and landing zone construction. Be prepared to get dirty, and stay afterwards to boulder with the experts. this is a free event but they do recommend you RSVP by calling (908) 231-0802 ext. 22. I'll be there and you should too!

In conclusion we rock hard and you should too. Get out of the gym and get climbing fo real, now is the best time send!

the Latest Triple Crown Beta Vid

The Beta - Brutus from Andrew Kornylak on Vimeo.

Ashley Dorough of Chapel Hill North Carolina climbs "Brutus" (V2) at Hound Ears - the site of the first Triple Crown Bouldering Series competition near Boone, North Carolina.

down time

tendonitis strikes again... looks like I'm stuck belaying for a while. It's been a while I almost forgot what it sounded like, that faithful POP. Thats what I get for not warming up long enough. Found out the pain was caused by a little too much campusing. I'm giving it a week or so to heal up, so instead of sitting in the house sulking I'm going to check out Sourland.

Sourland Mountain Preserve is allegedly home to the finest boulder fields in New Jersey. And I'm told that for years climbing has not been tolerated, but recently that ban has been lifted. Naturally I am stoked seeing as Sourland is close by and there is no daily fee to hike or climb. Sourland is a 10 mile long volcanic ridge of diabase, over 2,600 acres of scattered rock. The thought alone has my imagination running wild. Scouring the internet and asking around I haven't been able to snag a lot beta so there is possibility of virgin rock. A friend of mine has a buddy who hikes the trails and may be able to give some heads up to good areas. Anyway this turns out it should be an awesome bouldering trip. Fingers crossed look forward to a post with crazy overhangs, outrageous slabs, and good times in the next week or so. Until then climb strong, climb often, and keep it awesome-

When ya gotta go, ya gotta go

You know how it goes, youve gotta climb, youve gotta climb. Doesn't matter whether its night or day. I've been getting serious climb urges as of late. Much to my surprise climbing isnt so accessible right now. Ive marched down to the climbing gym everyday in hopes that it would render itself climbable. No dice. So I took matters into my own hands. Whoever closed up didnt do a very good job closing the door...so climbing?...climb on. Got a quick session in, and afterword did some incognito headlamp buildering. But it presents a bigger question,

WHERE IS THE LOVE?

Fergies still out on this one, but my money is its at a frat house somewhere. Im hoping there are some more climbers here soon, and alot less red tape. I cant keep on like this, I was having visions of Rumney trips and bouldering out on clandestine boulders in swamps. Theyve reduced me to pseudo-B&E and buildering. Baller as it is, not what I had in mind. Especially when it requires calling 8 or 9 different authorities, and selling my soul to the devil just to chalk up. Hopefully some more dedicated climbers get up here soon. Country roads take me home...to the dirty jerz.

beginning

Skateboarding around Philadelphia gives you the opportunity to see a lot of things going on, especially when you make it out to Fairmount Park. The park has a few boulders scattered around, and my friends and I often thought climbing them. We were too intimidated to just jump on, we had no idea where to start. We kept saying "someday." But for one of us, "someday" didn't come soon enough. My good friend and the most stoked person I ever knew, Reo Dennis, was killed on January 26th, 2009.

After that day, skateboarding, our favorite pasttime, had lost its luster. I decided then to seize the day. In his memory, I attempted to climb the rock we had passed by for so many years. It was a lot harder than I thought it would be at first, but I knew Reo wouldn't give up so I didn't either, and thats what hooked me.

Months have passed since then and many old friends have joined me, and I have met a lot of new friends that have joined the ever-growing crew. So whether you're a seasoned climber or are looking to grab onto that first jug, Mediocre Climbing will help you with beta, training tips, gear reviews, and whatever else we find interesting, and support you as you take on that next BIG project.

climb hard, climb often, and keep it awesome-
-Matt

how do we rock so hard?

A discussion came up today about why rock climbing in general is the most rad sport in existence. It is the ultimate test of physical and mental strength with obvious skill mashed in aka and I quote, " the most baller shit ever." What's your take on it?

GANDALF'S BEARD!

With fall creeping up on the north east I've been itching to get out of the gym and onto some real rock. I just picked up a pair of Evolv Predators, and have been in the gym like a mad man breaking them in. Yesterday was one of those days, I found that with the new shoes my footwork has taken a turn for the worst. And batman has just been swallowed by a whale... Back to the fall season, there's a bunch of areas I'd like to explore more, around Philadelphia, Rumney, the Gunks and the some closer crags at Allamunchy. I think I may have even spotted some virgin rock, I'm gonna check it out this weekend or next see if I am right and try to throw up some problems. Also while in this mystery spot not to far away is a V7 highball that is begging for a couple of sends. I know J-money is dying to hit it up as well.

On the other side in the gear whore dept the buzz is the new 5.10 team shoes are blowing the older fabled V10's out of the water. So obviously I am inclined to get a pair for testing. More on that in a couple of weeks. Other new shoes we are psyched about, the La Sportiva Speedsters and lace up Katanas, the Edelrid Ravens and Tornadoes, the new Evolv lineup, and the Millet Dulac Pro's which are the Climbing.com editors choice. All look promising for the 2010 season.

Next time I hope I'll have some adventure news and possibly some training tips from the not so pro's. Till then climb strong, climb often, and keep it awesome-

Lazy sundays bore blogs on monday

Sooner or later it had to happen... the official Mediocre Climbing Blog featuring climbers you've never heard of before.... Get ready we're gonna breathe new life into those old boring problems, from V0- all the way to V14+ yes quite baller-